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Mon Boudoir by Houbigant c1918

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Mon Boudoir by Houbigant: launched in 1918.



Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It was classified as an oriental fragrance for women with a dominant ambergris note.
  • Top notes:
  • Middle notes:
  • Base notes: ambergris

Bottles:







Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.


A Rose Is A Rose Is A Rose c1974

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A Rose Is A Rose Is A Rose by Houbigant: launched in 1974.



Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women with dominant rose and cognac notes.
  • Top notes:
  • Middle notes: Bulgarian rose otto, cognac
  • Base notes:

McCall's, 1975:
"Houbigant may be starting a revival with a new single-flower fragrance called "A Rose is a Rose is a Rose”; as the name indicates, it leaves you smelling like one."

Mademoiselle, 1975:
"ROSES TO WEAR A Rose Is a Rose Is a Rose is Houbigant's new (you guessed it!) rose for your nose. Actually, it's for all the rest of you as well — and all."

Mademoiselle, 1976:
"Newer love potions to woo — Revlon's Jontue or Coty's Nuance, Avon's Unspoken, Madame Jovan, Houbigant's A Rose is a Rose is a Rose."

Good Housekeeping, 1976:
"Avon arrests the miracle of the rose in Roses, Roses—as Houbigant does in A Rose Is a Rose Is a Rose, a natural extraction of petals from Bulgaria. Loyalist Rose by Love Cosmetics is a captivating blend of American roses. "

K.T. Maclay's Total beauty catalog, 1978:
 "A ROSE IS A ROSE IS A ROSE by Houbigant, S2.50-$33.00. The name is inspired by a line in Gertrude Stein's famous poem, "Sacred Emily." The feeling is pure romance. Imagine all the velvet textures and sunlit colors of one perfect, full yellow rose."

It was also released under their subsidiary brand Alyssa Ashley:

1976:
 "Alyssa Ashley - A Rose Is a Rose. Dozens of roses in every bottle Count them over 250 sprays Pick them in non spray. * A Rose Is a Rose Pure Spray $2.50.".

This was available in Spray Mist, Cologne, Perfume Oil, Perfumed Dusting Powder  and Hand & Body Moisturizer.

Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.


Houbigant En Beaute c1930s

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Houbigant released their "En Beaute" line in the late 1920s, it was still being sold into the early 1940s. The line included: laite en beaute (a beauty fluid), creme en beaute (a face cream), fard sec, fard creme, rouge tenace.

Napoleon's Perfume Bills

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The National Druggist, Volume 38, 1908:


Napoleon's Perfume Bills 

Napoleon I. had a fine set of teeth, of which he was very proud. An invoice presented by Gervais Chardin, perfumer to their Imperial and Royal Majesties, Paris, in October 1808, includes six boxes of powdered coral for the teeth, 361 francs. The same tradesman's bills from June 2nd to September 1806, charged 15 dozen in boxwood and ivory, and in October 1808, he invoiced 24 dozen boxwood toothpicks, 48 francs.

Windsor soap the Emperor always seems to have used; Chardin invoiced it at 2 francs per cake in 1808. Sponges were also often invoiced by Chardin - e.g., 20 superfine sponges 262 francs and 12 superfine sponges for the face 144 francs.

 Napoleon was fond of the smell of lignaloes (which then cost 72 francs per ounce) and occasionally bought other perfumes, such as one large flask of double extract of Spanish jasmine, 40 francs; but eau de cologne was his principal, and almost his only, regular purchase in this line.

Eau de cologne was Napoleon's favorite perfume, and his consumption of it was phenomenal. He used it in water when washing, and poured it in profusion over his head and shoulders. Madame de Remusat states that he used sixty "rouleaux" or bottles per month. His perfumer, Chardin, sent in a quarterly bill in 1806, as follows:

  • 162 bottles eau de cologne.....423 francs. 
  • 26 superfine sponges..... 262 francs. 
  • 26 ornamental pots of almond paste (pate d'amande).... 366 francs.


 In 1810 we find an invoice for 144 bottles of eau de cologne 300 francs -- Chardin had reduced his price. Shortly afterwards Napoleon found a more advantageous manufacturer of "improved eau de cologne" who invoiced in 1812-13, "for the Emperor's use," 108 cases of eau de cologne, each containing six rouleaux, at 17 francs per case, 756 francs. When Napoleon returned from Elba he dealt with J. Tessier, at the Golden Bell in the rue Richelieu, who invoiced March 20 to April 30 1815:

  • 4 cases eau de cologne.... 24 francs 
  • 2 cakes orange flower soap.... 6 francs 
  • 6 cakes Windsor soap.... 7 francs, 50 
  • 3 superfine white sponges... 30 francs 
  • 2 hair brushes (mahogany)... 18 francs 
  • 2 rheumatism brushes (mahogany)... 21 francs. 






Houbigant Three Perfume Dressing Table Stand

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A red plastic stand holds one ounce bottles of Indian Summer, Quelques Fleurs and Chantilly colognes.






images from ebay

Contraste c1932

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Contraste by Houbigant: launched in 1932.




Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? I have no published notes on this creation, I would need a sample to tell you what it smells like.
  • Top notes:
  • Middle notes:
  • Base notes:


La vie parisienne sous l'occupation, 1940-1944, 1971:
"...tandis que Houbigant crée cinq nouveaux cocktails d'essences précieuses, capiteux avec 'Présence', miellé avec 'Transparence', sensuel avec 'Contraste' , soutenu avec 'Demi- jour' et printanier avec 'Floraison ."

Bottle:


Presented in a beautiful oval, convex-shaped colorless pressed glass bottle, molded in the lower part with a projecting geometric pattern imitating rock or ice. The glass stopper is also molded with the rocky texture and is frosted. There is a clear label on the bottle with blue serigraphy, and placed just under the neck of the bottle. The bottle came in two different sizes: 3 3/4" tall and 4.13" tall. 

Bottles manufactured by Pochet et du Courval and were designed by Pierre D'Avesn (real name Pierre Girre), who once worked with Rene Lalique. Though these bottles are sometimes attributed to Lalique, and to dispel confusion, it is important to note that they were NOT manufactured by Lalique.

Bottles were housed in boxes wrapped with black faux morocco leather paper, the interior is lined with buttery yellow faux morocco leather paper.



Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1944. 

En Visite c1923

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En Visite by Houbigant: launched in 1923. The fragrance was available in parfum (extract), toilet water, face powder, dusting powder and talcum powder.




Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral bouquet fragrance for women.
  • Top notes:
  • Middle notes: flowers
  • Base notes:


Bottles:


En Visite parfum (extract) came in four sizes: 1/2 ounce (for $2.25), 1 ounce (for $5), about 2 ounce (for $8) and 4 ounce (for $15). The one ounce parfum (extrait) bottle was discontinued in 1931.


Fate of the Fragrance:



Discontinued,date unknown. Still being sold as 1937.

Note by Houbigant c1918

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Note by Houbigant: launched in 1918.






Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: lemon, bergamot, neroli
  • Middle notes: rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, lily of the valley, lilac, orange blossom
  • Base notes: galbanum, oakmoss, sandalwood, musk, vanilla, tonka


Bottle:


Housed in a crystal bottle with rounded, sloping shoulders and topped with a small glass stopper.


Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.

Subtilite by Houbigant c1920

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Subtilite by Houbigant: launched in 1920.

Fragrance Composition:


I have no published notes on the perfume, I would need a sample to give you an idea of what it smells like.


  • Top notes:
  • Middle notes:
  • Base notes:




Bottle:


Subtilite's pure parfum was housed in a beautiful Baccarat crystal bottle that was in the shape of a Buddha, topped with a brass ring. The perfume was presented in a black silk faille covered box, trimmed with gilding and lined with red silk. The box has an elegant arched shape with two doors. The Buddha bottle holds 2.5 oz of parfum and originally sold for $12.50 in 1925.



Other Baccarat bottles were used to contain the fragrance such as the one below, tall, ovoid shape with rectangular base, arched shoulders, with a gilded oval stopper. This bottle was available in four sizes: 1/4 oz, 1/2 oz, 1 oz, and 2 oz.


However, the figural Buddha bottle seems to be the most coveted and commands high prices when introduced into the marketplace.




Fate of the Fragrance:



It is interesting to note that when it was first introduced, the perfume in the Buddha flacon retailed for $12.50, but by 1933, it sold as low as $3.00. By 1944, it seems it may have been discontinued.

Festival by Houbigant c1931

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Festival by Houbigant: launched in 1931. Created by Marcel Billot.







Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a strong green floral chypre fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: green accord, bergamot, aldehydes, galbanum
  • Middle notes: floral notes, jasmine, rose
  • Base notes: oakmoss, sandalwood, musk, patchouli, labdanum, tonka bean, ambergris, vetiver


 
Vanity Fair, 1931:
"Festival by Houbigant is the result of an entirely new conception and blended with only the rarest and most precious exhales its perfection after a period of evaporation."


Vanity Fair, 1931:
"Parfums Houbigant presents Etude and Festival, developed by a new and exclusive technique of blending rare essences-developing the full perfection of their fragrances a brief moment after they are applied."

Hearst's, 1932:
"Parfum ETUDE and Parfum FESTIVAL are representative of an exclusive grouping that includes the most precious of parfums."

Vanity Fair, 1932:
"Perfumes should never distort you, never mould you to a type; rather, they should be a true projection of your personality as are the Parfums of Houbigant. They find their final fragrance form only after they have touched your skin, after they have been invested with and individualized by your own distinctive aura. The retarded development of Houbigant Parfums is the result of a modern exclusive process of blending rare essence, a process which finds luxurious expression in Parfums ESSENCE RARE, ETUDE and FESTIVAL ... and in three new odeurs."



The New Yorker, 1933:
"FESTIVAL - The perfume of gayety. New favorite of Continental society. $5.50 to $27.50".




Bottles:




American Druggist, 1931:
"HOUBIGANT A new and lasting fragrance called Festival is presented in a modern fluted bottle."


Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1942. Unfortunately, the perfume did not last past the end of the second world war. The very green chypre fragrance was not as popular with the American market as it was with the French market, which was already being flooded with similar smelling scents, so it was pulled from production.

Figuier Noir by Houbigant c2022

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Figuier Noir by Houbigant: launched in 2022. Created by perfumer Céline Ellena.




Since its inception, Houbigant has perfumed the men who have marked history: from Louis XVI to Napoleon to the Russian Tsars. In Houbigant’s ledgers it is recorded that during the 100-day campaign Napoleon stopped at the Houbigant store to fill his trunks with perfume before continuing his march to regain power. Today, as in the past, Houbigant puts men in the spotlight with a collection dedicated to them, created around precious raw materials and sophisticated pairings.



Figuier Noir is a fragrance dedicated to the hearts of men, a reassuring and elegant but at the same time contradictory olfactory combination. Figuier Noir is a synergy of saps to reach the unattainable star, a combination of woods, to emphasize sincerity, an interlacing of roots, to anchor the signature, exquisite spices and black fig pulp that shapes its sillage.

It begins with a spicy top followed by a fruity heart layered over a woody base.

  • Top notes: fig leaves, cardamom, cloves, black pepper
  • Middle notes: back fig, iris, jasmine
  • Base notes: cedar, patchouli, candied figs

"I had this opportunity, to live in the countryside in Grasse region where I had all the time in the world to contemplate the passage of time and to welcome the arrival of sunny days. From the first heat, the fig trees yield a bitter and sensual perfume, harsh and voluptuous. A reassuring and elegant olfactory combination, yet so contradictory, that the idea came to me to write a men's fragrance. Sitting in the shade of the black fig tree whose gnarled branches embraced me like long, sensitive arms, refreshed by the caress of the wind that gently crumpled the leaves above my head, so large that they reminded me of a giant’s hands, I guessed beyond the bark, the gentle, soothing pulsation of the sap. Nose stretched, hands abandoned to the ground, eyes closed, I let myself be carried away by the waves of contrary but disturbing scents. Numb and blissful, I immediately went back to my workshop to keep my fickle harvest and, in front of my scale, I formulated a brief series of fragrant ingredients. Because, you probably know, men like to define themselves in a few words" - Céline Ellena.

Flatterie by Houbigant c1955

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Flatterie by Houbigant: launched in 1955.






Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a soft floral chypre fragrance for women. Top notes are aldehydic and sweet with the dewy notes of cyclamen, narcissus and honeysuckle, the heart features a profusion of white flowers: gardenia, tuberose, orange blossom, jonquil, lily and jasmine, it is also slightly medicinal with the pungency of clove, like a fresh garden. It is rounded out with a classic chypre base accented with incnese and vanilla. Smells like an expensive, French toilet soap.
  • Top notes: cyclamen, wisteria, neroli, aldehydes, bergamot, honeysuckle, narcissus, amaryllis
  • Middle notes: gardenia, clove, jonquil, lilac, heliotrope, orange blossom, tuberose, lily, iris, ylang ylang, rose, jasmine
  • Base notes: tonka bean, vanilla, patchouli, oakmoss, orris, ambergris, musk, sandalwood, frankincense
 


Combat, 1955:
"Flatterie (fragrant cologne) by Houbigant - Very aldehyde, which gives it an explosion of youth, this perfume that flatters the woman, as the voluptuous whispering of Juan Ténorio must have done, gray of narcissus, heliotrope and amaryllis , a deliquescent [liquified] chypre. For the casino, the fashionable woman, blooming all day long with eau de cologne, will rediscover the extract, symbol of the flattering whirlwind it raises."

Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.







Essence Rare by Houbigant c1976

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The relaunch of Essence Rare in 1976 amidst the disco era was a fascinating juxtaposition of sensuality, earthiness, and sophistication. Disco culture was marked by its glamorous nightlife, pulsating music, and a liberated sense of self-expression. It was an era where people embraced their sensuality and individuality, often through fashion, music, and fragrances.

The reformulation of Essence Rare by Jean Claude Ellena during this period captured the essence of the times. The fragrance embodied the allure and magnetism of the disco scene, while also paying homage to the earthy, sensual vibes of the 1970s. Chypres, with their mossy, woody, and earthy notes, were particularly popular during this time, exemplified by iconic scents like YSL's Rive Gauche and Paco Rabanne's Calandre.

The relaunch of Essence Rare under the Houbigant name, in collaboration with Mem, was a testament to the brand's commitment to timeless elegance and sophistication. By infusing modern ingredients into the fragrance, it retained its classic appeal while also appealing to contemporary tastes.

Overall, the period when Essence Rare was relaunched in 1976 was a blend of disco glamour, sensual earthiness, and the enduring allure of classic chypres. It was a time of self-expression, liberation, and the celebration of individuality, perfectly encapsulated in the essence of this iconic fragrance.





Fragrance Composition: 


So what does it smell like? It is a woody floral aldehyde laced fragrance for women. It starts off with a cool, green, aldehydic top, followed by a radiant floral heart, resting on a sensual, woody base.
  • Top notes: hyacinth, aldehydes, Hungarian chamomile, bergamot oil, green note, orange 
  • Middle notes: ylang ylang, jasmine, Bulgarian rose, geranium, lily, lily of the valley, orris, rose de mai
  • Base notes: Javanese patchouli, fig leaf, sandalwood, amber, East Indian vetiver, civet, musk, oakmoss, tonka bean

Cue, 1976:
"Also at Altman's is Houbigant's spectacular new fragrance, Essence Rare — a heady treat for both eye and nose in its exquisite flacon sculpted like a rippled waterfall, undulating with dancing lights and twinkly reflections"


Soap, Cosmetics, Chemical Specialties - Volume 52 - Page 55, 1976:

"Essence Rare" is Houbigant, Inc., New York's first major introduction since "Chantilly" in the 40's."


Vogue, 1977:

"WE SEARCHED UNTIL WE FOUND THE ESSENCE RARE We searched. Until we found a fragrance that starts softly, develops beautifully and never seems to end. And then we made it in perfume. In cologne spray. And in powdering. Essence Rare by Houbigant."

Product Line:


The availability of Essence Rare in various forms during its relaunch in 1976 offered consumers a range of options to experience its captivating fragrance. Here's a breakdown of the product line:

  • Parfum: The concentrated form of Essence Rare, offering a potent and long-lasting scent experience.
  • Fragrance Spray: A convenient option for applying the fragrance, providing a fine mist of scent for a subtle yet noticeable presence.
  • Body Fragrance Spray (Lotion-like): Combining the benefits of a moisturizing lotion with the allure of fragrance, this body spray provided both hydration and a delicate scent to the skin.
  • Dusting Powder: A luxurious way to add a hint of fragrance while also providing a silky smooth feel to the skin, ideal for pampering moments.
  • Perfumed Soap: Infused with the signature scent of Essence Rare, this soap offered a luxurious cleansing experience while leaving a lingering fragrance on the skin.
  • Bath Oil: Adding a few drops of Essence Rare bath oil to the bathwater created a relaxing and indulgent bathing experience, enveloping the senses in its alluring aroma.

With this diverse product line, consumers could incorporate Essence Rare into their daily grooming rituals, from bathing to moisturizing to fragrance application, ensuring they could enjoy its captivating scent in various ways throughout the day.


Bottle:


The redesigned bottle for the relaunched Essence Rare in 1976 was a stunning testament to both elegance and nature-inspired design. Crafted by Pochet et du Courval, renowned for their exquisite glasswork, the heavy crystal bottle resembled tree bark, evoking a sense of organic beauty and natural luxury.

The bottle's design featured intricate details that mimicked the texture and appearance of tree bark, adding depth and character to its aesthetic. Complemented by a chunky crystal stopper, the overall presentation exuded sophistication and craftsmanship.

To ensure authenticity and quality, the base of the bottle bore the inscription "Houbigant Made in France," indicating its origin and association with the prestigious perfume house. Additionally, the HP mark for Pochet served as a hallmark of excellence, affirming the bottle's fine craftsmanship and attention to detail.

Overall, the bottle design for Essence Rare not only served as a vessel for the exquisite fragrance within but also as a work of art in its own right, reflecting the timeless allure and sophistication of the perfume itself.


Sometimes the labels are missing on your bottles, so here is a handy guide to help you determine the size of your bottle:

  • Micro Mini perfume 1.25" tall
  • 0.25 oz (7.5 ml) The Perfume Splash (parfum) stands 1.75" tall.
  • 0.50 oz (14 ml) The Perfume Splash (parfum) stands 2.25" tall
  • 1 oz (28 ml) The Perfume Splash (parfum) stands 2.75" tall
  • 0.25 oz The Perfume Spray (parfum) stands 3.75" tall
  • 21 ml Eau de Toilette bottle stands 4.5" tall
  • 0.75 oz The Body Fragrance Spray
  • 1.7 oz The Body Fragrance Spray
  • 2.5 oz The Body Fragrance Spray
  • 3.5 oz The Body Fragrance Spray
  • 1.7 oz Body Fragrance Spray (lotion like)
  • 3.5 oz The Body Fragrance Spray (lotion like)


The continuation of the bark-inspired theme onto the packaging of other products within the Essence Rare line further reinforced the cohesive and luxurious branding of the fragrance collection. Here's how the theme extended to different packaging elements:

  • Glamorous Powder Jar: The powder jar, designed to hold the dusting powder, likely featured a similar bark-like texture or motif on its exterior. This design choice would create a harmonious visual connection with the perfume bottle, ensuring that each product in the line contributed to a cohesive and elegant aesthetic.
  • Body Fragrance (Lotion Type) Bottle: Just like the perfume bottle, the body fragrance bottle for Essence Rare would have echoed the bark-inspired design motif. The lotion bottle's packaging might have featured textured elements or patterns reminiscent of tree bark, maintaining consistency across the product line and enhancing the overall luxury appeal.


By extending the bark-type theme to the packaging of other products within the Essence Rare line, Houbigant created a unified brand identity that exuded sophistication and attention to detail. This cohesive design approach not only enhanced the visual appeal of individual products but also reinforced the brand's commitment to quality and elegance throughout the entire fragrance collection.





Fate of the Fragrance:


The discontinuation of Essence Rare by 1990 marked the end of an era for this iconic fragrance. Despite its popularity and timeless appeal, various factors may have contributed to its discontinuation.

Shifts in consumer preferences, evolving fragrance trends, and changes in the competitive landscape within the perfume industry could have influenced the decision to discontinue Essence Rare. Additionally, economic factors, market saturation, and strategic decisions by Houbigant may have played a role in the discontinuation process.

While Essence Rare may no longer be in production, its legacy lives on through memories of its captivating scent and its impact on the perfume industry during its time in the spotlight. For enthusiasts and collectors, discontinued fragrances like Essence Rare often hold a special place in their hearts, evoking nostalgia for a bygone era of elegance and sophistication.


2018 Reformulation & Relaunch:


Jean-Claude Ellena's recreation of a new fragrance named Essence Rare in 2018 marked an exciting chapter in the legacy of Houbigant. This reinvention represented a departure from the previous incarnations of Essence Rare, offering a fresh interpretation that reflected contemporary sensibilities and Ellena's unique olfactory vision.

As part of the Houbigant Collection Privée, this new Essence Rare joined a lineup of exclusive fragrances crafted with meticulous attention to detail and uncompromising quality. The Collection Privée aimed to showcase Houbigant's heritage while embracing innovation and creativity in fragrance composition.

While the original Essence Rare was known for its earthy chypre notes and the 1976 reformulation captured the spirit of the disco era, Ellena's reinterpretation of Essence Rare in 2018 likely introduced a completely different olfactory profile. With his renowned expertise and artistic sensibility, Ellena likely crafted a fragrance that reflected contemporary tastes and trends, while still embodying the essence of luxury and sophistication synonymous with the Houbigant brand.

The introduction of this new Essence Rare in 2018 demonstrated Houbigant's commitment to evolving with the times while staying true to its heritage of excellence in perfumery. It offered fragrance enthusiasts an opportunity to experience a modern interpretation of a classic name, adding a new chapter to the storied history of Essence Rare.




Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women.

  • Top notes: mandarin orange, aldehydes 
  • Middle notes: jasmine, lily of the valley, iris, rose 
  • Base notes: sandalwood, amber, oakmoss, vanilla


Close your eyes and envision a journey through a blooming garden under the gentle warmth of the sun. At first sniff, the vibrant essence of mandarin orange dances around you, accompanied by the effervescent sparkle of aldehydes, akin to the joyous pop of champagne.

As you stroll deeper into the garden, the air becomes saturated with the intoxicating scent of jasmine, its heady sweetness intermingling with the delicate freshness of lily of the valley. Iris adds a touch of powdery elegance, while the classic fragrance of roses infuses the atmosphere with romance and femininity.

As the day transitions into evening, the fragrance settles into a warm embrace of sandalwood and amber, with oakmoss lending an earthy depth and vanilla leaving a lingering trail of sweet comfort.

This floral masterpiece, with its intricate blend of notes, captures the essence of timeless elegance and feminine allure, inviting you to immerse yourself in its captivating embrace.


 Bottle:


The new Essence Rare is presented in a bottle reminiscent of the one used for the remake of Quelques Fleurs. This packaging choice likely evokes a sense of continuity and heritage within the Houbigant brand, paying homage to its iconic fragrances while offering a fresh interpretation for contemporary audiences.

The bottle design may feature similar characteristics to the Quelques Fleurs bottle, such as elegant lines, refined curves, and luxurious details, reflecting the timeless sophistication and classic allure of both fragrances. This cohesive visual aesthetic not only enhances the brand's identity but also reinforces the sense of exclusivity and prestige associated with the Houbigant Collection Privée.

By aligning the packaging of Essence Rare with that of the Quelques Fleurs remake, Houbigant creates a sense of unity and coherence within its fragrance portfolio, while also signaling to consumers the exceptional quality and craftsmanship inherent in each scent.

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